Trapping Articles and Reviews of Trapping Supplies by Trappers for Trappers
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Thanks for visiting Trapping Supplies Review. This is a place for trappers to share their insights on all things related to trapping. If you would like to contribute a trapping article, equipment review or stories and pictures from your trapline, please click "contact me" in the sidebar and I'll be happy to include your post. Meantime, please feel free to post comments on any topic if you have additional insights. Together we can make this website a valuable resource for trappers.
Looking Forward to Fall
It's that time of year when Summer is winding down and Fall is on it's way, and my thoughts are turning more and more to the trapping season. This blog has kept me thinking about trapping throughout the off season, but I'm now getting antsy to get my boots on the ground and lay some steel.
To me, trapping is the ultimate escape. There is nothing more relaxing, more liberating, than hiking the hills and trails of my trapline on a chilly morning, anticipating the sight of my first catch in the early morning light. The rest of the world seems a million miles away, and I'm thinking of nothing else but trapping. When my efforts are rewarded with a nice fox or a fat ringtail I feel like I've accomplished something real as a sportsman. It's not something that many other people would consider noteworthy, but it doesn't matter. I'm out there for no one else's sake but mine, and only because I enjoy the chase and I enjoy the challenge.
Even when I don't catch a blessed thing, and I've had such days, there's no sense of disappointment. Sometimes trapping and catching are two different things, but as long as I'm trapping I'm content. I do many other things outdoors, but I never enjoy nature so much as when I'm in the role of trapper. Maybe it's the Fall weather, maybe it's the anticipation of the next catch, maybe it's the time spent with my kids, but I take no greater pleasure in God's creation than when my pack basket is on my back.
I never fail to think of the Mountain Men when I'm out running traps, and what it must have been like for them to explore the West, roam as free men, and trap the untouched wilderness. Even though I'm a 21st century part-time short-liner, I like to think of the history of what I'm doing, and to think that I have at least some kind of distant connection with those intrepid men of history and their taste for adventure.
About this time of year I begin to putz around my fur shed looking for things to do and equipment to prepare. Everywhere I drive I'm looking all around as much as at the road, always on the lookout for new places to scout and add to my trapline itinerary. I've got trapping on the brain, and the anticipation will only build until that November morning when my first traps go in the ground. I already know it will be a good season, not because I have an arsenal of new gimmicks and techniques to try, but because every season is a good season. There are no bad trapping seasons, at least that's how I see it. I never spent a day trapping that I regret, so I know I have a lot of fun, fulfilling days ahead of me.
Maybe to some I'm a little too nostalgic about this whole thing. I know there are some who see trapping as a simple equation: catching + skinning = fur check. For me it's a much more complicated equation, but a much more fulfilling experience. It's a mindset as much as a sport. It's a way of life packed into 3 or 4 months of the year. When the leaves start to turn, as they will any day, it will be hard to think about much else.
Fired Conibear Indicator
by Tony Hursman
This device will let you know when an underwater conibear is fired. Instead of having to physically check the trap you can just look for the flag and save time. When the trap is fired it drops down past the first eyelet. In deeper water sets the flag will be submerged if the trap has fired, letting you know you need to check the trap.
This is also a great way to do underwater beaver sets as well. The same principal applies. Weld 2 eyelets on the conibear support then use a surveyor flag threaded through the eyelets and attached to the conibear. This will not slow the trap down enough to worry about it.
This device will let you know when an underwater conibear is fired. Instead of having to physically check the trap you can just look for the flag and save time. When the trap is fired it drops down past the first eyelet. In deeper water sets the flag will be submerged if the trap has fired, letting you know you need to check the trap.
This is also a great way to do underwater beaver sets as well. The same principal applies. Weld 2 eyelets on the conibear support then use a surveyor flag threaded through the eyelets and attached to the conibear. This will not slow the trap down enough to worry about it.
Before
After
Dental Floss and Trapping
by Tom Sabo in British Columbia
Dental floss is a very important trapping item for me. I do not go out on the line or work in the skinning shed without a roll or two. It is light, compact, and very strong for its size. I prefer the waxed variety as it is the easiest to work with. There are many uses for it on the line and in the workshop, such as sewing beaver and otter leg holes and accidental cuts in hides, hanging cat cubby set attractors and bait/lure holders as well as positioning snares.
Have you ever had a problem hanging large loop snares in the position desired, or have snares that want to twist on you? Dental floss provides a quick and efficient answer for these problems. Simply pull off an appropriate length for the situation, tie a half hitch around the snare loop in a suitable location, lift the snare into the desired position, then tie the other end of the floss to a bush, tree or tree limb. The dental floss looks like a spider web, is virtually invisible and will not alarm the animal you are trying to catch.
Many trappers use mono-filament fishing line for various purposes on the trapline. I find that dental floss can be used for the same purposes, in most situations, and is, in my opinion, easier to work with than the fishing line.
Dental floss is a very important trapping item for me. I do not go out on the line or work in the skinning shed without a roll or two. It is light, compact, and very strong for its size. I prefer the waxed variety as it is the easiest to work with. There are many uses for it on the line and in the workshop, such as sewing beaver and otter leg holes and accidental cuts in hides, hanging cat cubby set attractors and bait/lure holders as well as positioning snares.
Have you ever had a problem hanging large loop snares in the position desired, or have snares that want to twist on you? Dental floss provides a quick and efficient answer for these problems. Simply pull off an appropriate length for the situation, tie a half hitch around the snare loop in a suitable location, lift the snare into the desired position, then tie the other end of the floss to a bush, tree or tree limb. The dental floss looks like a spider web, is virtually invisible and will not alarm the animal you are trying to catch.
Before
Many trappers use mono-filament fishing line for various purposes on the trapline. I find that dental floss can be used for the same purposes, in most situations, and is, in my opinion, easier to work with than the fishing line.
Comprehensive Outdoor News
Camo Underground is a fantastic source of outdoor news, with many stories on gun rights, hunting and other outdoor interests. What I love about this site is that it's set up just like the Drudge Report and packed full of news stories that will interest trappers, hunters and shooters. Check it out!
Israel to Debate a National Ban on Fur Trade
The Israeli Knesset is set to debate a bill on September 2 that would place a national ban on the production, processing, import, export and sale of animal fur products. Although the Israeli fur trade is tiny, animal rights activists are hailing this bill as an example for other countries to follow. "A ban on all fur throughout the country would be a world first -- a major stand against the animal cruelty inherent in the worldwide fur trade -- and it would set an example that other countries would look to and follow," says a statement by Humane Society International, an animal rights organization which sent two officials to testify before a Knesset committee in Israel this year.
Ronit Tirosh, the originator of the bill, is confident it will pass. "The chances of it becoming law are very high. I started a long time ago, and we took it step by step," she told AOL News. "I hope that many other countries will follow us. The world is moving forward regarding the rights of animals." The story at AOL news can be read here.
This is a stark reminder about how much ground the animal rights crowd is gaining. If it can happen there it can happen here, and you can bet that the leftist wackos already have a strategy in place to push similar legislation in the USA. It is now more important than ever for trappers to support the fur industry and become active members in local trapping associations. Make your voice heard. If we are silent, they win.
Ronit Tirosh, the originator of the bill, is confident it will pass. "The chances of it becoming law are very high. I started a long time ago, and we took it step by step," she told AOL News. "I hope that many other countries will follow us. The world is moving forward regarding the rights of animals." The story at AOL news can be read here.
This is a stark reminder about how much ground the animal rights crowd is gaining. If it can happen there it can happen here, and you can bet that the leftist wackos already have a strategy in place to push similar legislation in the USA. It is now more important than ever for trappers to support the fur industry and become active members in local trapping associations. Make your voice heard. If we are silent, they win.
New Trap Design by Tony Hursman
Tony is a contributor to this site and a very experienced trapper. For the last three years he has been testing and perfecting his new traps which are now available to the public. Based on his experience, Tony has incorporated some unique design features that trappers will appreciate. That's what you get from a trap designed by a trapper. Tony provided some of the following info and pics as a preview.
The trap is made of 1 1/2" 14 gauge square steel and measures 5" long. It comes with 6" chain, two swivels, and a stabilizer, and has a centered push type trigger. This trap can be set with one finger making it easy to set for trappers of all ages. All mechanisms are on the inside of the trap, including fully enclosed springs, which eliminates external damage and freeze up. This trap is light weight and compact even in comparison to other dog-proof traps. The interesting part is the design of the trap door. When a raccoon is caught and pulls it will tighten the door, when the raccoon lets up the door will relax causing minimal (if any) damage to the foot. If the raccoon pushes down on the trap it will only be caught deeper in the trap. The coons that Tony caught during testing still had circulation in the caught foot with no damage. Tony reports having no pullouts during testing, and releasing a coon is as easy as pushing the door open with a stick or similar object. The bottom of the trap is open so you don`t have a clogged up trap after use, and they are easy to clean. The trap is cost efficient at $13.95 and looks like it has better features than many other dog-proof traps on the market.
The manufactuer is HD Outdoors LLC, owned by Jason and Jessica Vandergriff, located at 3593 4th Street, Owensville, MO, 65066. Orders and inquiries can be sent to demo33@fidnet.com. The traps can also be ordered at The Trapboard.
Give this trap a try and support an innovative trapper!
All pics can be enlarged.
The trap is made of 1 1/2" 14 gauge square steel and measures 5" long. It comes with 6" chain, two swivels, and a stabilizer, and has a centered push type trigger. This trap can be set with one finger making it easy to set for trappers of all ages. All mechanisms are on the inside of the trap, including fully enclosed springs, which eliminates external damage and freeze up. This trap is light weight and compact even in comparison to other dog-proof traps. The interesting part is the design of the trap door. When a raccoon is caught and pulls it will tighten the door, when the raccoon lets up the door will relax causing minimal (if any) damage to the foot. If the raccoon pushes down on the trap it will only be caught deeper in the trap. The coons that Tony caught during testing still had circulation in the caught foot with no damage. Tony reports having no pullouts during testing, and releasing a coon is as easy as pushing the door open with a stick or similar object. The bottom of the trap is open so you don`t have a clogged up trap after use, and they are easy to clean. The trap is cost efficient at $13.95 and looks like it has better features than many other dog-proof traps on the market.
The manufactuer is HD Outdoors LLC, owned by Jason and Jessica Vandergriff, located at 3593 4th Street, Owensville, MO, 65066. Orders and inquiries can be sent to demo33@fidnet.com
Give this trap a try and support an innovative trapper!
All pics can be enlarged.
Tony also sent this short video that explains some of the features and benefits of his trap design. His roosters get a little rowdy toward the end :-) His video is also available on YouTube at this link. Thanks Tony!
A Trip to Beautiful B.C.
In my online wanderings I've gotten to know a few trappers in British Columbia, and this blog has a few great contributions from some guys in B.C., but I had never been there myself until a few weeks ago. I'm truly jealous of you guys who call B.C. home! It's a beautiful place with more untouched wilderness than I've ever seen. Although it was a fishing trip, I could not help but wonder what it would be like to trap in that vast, beautiful wilderness. It sure sparked the imagination of this suburban fox/coon trapper. If any of you guys up in B.C. have some pictures to send or stories to tell, please let me know! Meantime, here are a few pics from my trip. The fishing was second to none; I can only imagine what the trapping is like!
Marten Trapping in Canada
by Tom Sabo from British Columbia
The Marten, being a member of the Weasel family and smaller cousin to the Fisher, is an opportunistic hunter. They prey on a wide variety of animals including hares, grouse, squirrels, birds and their eggs, berries, carrion and their primary prey of mice and voles. Marten are found in suitable habitat throughout the province of B.C. and most Canadian provinces.
HABITAT: Marten are often associated with older high elevation moist conifer forest but it is actually the make-up of the forest stand, not its age, that is more important. They do exist at lower elevations if the proper conditions exist. The important factor is “coarse woody debris” (downed logs, stumps, snags, litter) along with relatively dense overhead tree cover and shrubs to provide protective cover for both Marten and their primary prey. Small local patches of blowdowns are likely places to catch Marten as well as along streams and ridges, and of course heavy timber stands with lots of coarse woody debris.
BAIT & LURE: Being an opportunistic hunter the Marten will respond to any meat or fish. But, I prefer beaver as it puts out a strong odor even when frozen. If beaver is not available I will use moose or deer scraps. For lure I use beaver castor with anise or a sweet lure with anise and raspberry jam made by a local trapper. There are probably many good lures on the market that work well. You just need to experiment with them to find out what works best for your area. In extreme cold weather a lure with skunk in it will bring them to a set from a greater distance, although I seldom use it, as it is my opinion that in extremely cold weather most Marten will stay and hunt under snow cover in the “coarse woody debris.”
SET LOCATIONS: I have no specific criteria for placing trap sets other than making a set at roughly every kilometre, ½ mile or less, in suitable habitat. The more sets you have out in good habitat the more dispersing animals you will catch. Being that I operate a registered trapline I have, based on trial and error, permanent productive locations I use year after year. Based on years of observation it’s my conclusion that Marten will generally not cross relatively open areas and will disperse only through contiguous habitat with good overhead cover.
TRAPS & SETS: In Canada we are restricted to using killing snares, killing traps or cage traps. The most common trap used is a 120 size rotating jaw trap (conibear), although a 160 is used by some where they also expect Fisher. I find this unnecessary as it is my experience that Fisher will enter through a 120 without hesitation and, in my opinion, the 160 is a bit large for Marten.
The most common set used for Marten trapping is the coni box nailed to a tree vertically with the bottom facing down or to a leaning tree, deadfall or limb. I prefer the leaning tree with the box 4-5 feet off the ground or snow level. The objective with having the set above ground or snow level is to have the Marten hanging after being caught to avoid rodent damage. Rodents are particularly attracted to Marten fur and can quickly reduce the value of a pelt.
Where it is inconvenient to pack in boxes a running pole set is often used. This involves a leaning pole with a trap fastened to the pole with 3 nails, or a commercial trap holder, bait tied to the underside of the pole tip and tree limbs passed through the trap springs and over the trap to force the Marten through it.
I prefer a relatively long box (14-16 inches) with the slot cut to within 6 inches of the back. I place the pan trigger trap close to the bait. This way the marten is stationary standing on the trap pan while working the bait and when the trap is fired it results in a humane suitcase catch 99.9% of the time.
Making PVC Pipe Sets for Raccoons
by Hunter in Minnesota
Tools needed...Sawzall or hacksaw, hammer, drill, tape measure, sharpie, pliers and PVC piping with 90 degree angles. All pics can be enlarged.
Take your measurement and mark you PVC were it is to be cut. I cut mine so that the end you push into the ground is at a 45 degree angle.
I make two sizes: 12 inch for hard ground and 18 inches for soft ground. Mark the tops of them with your sharpie if you wish. I do so just to make sure I grab the right one when I'm in a hurry.
If you have problems with coon pulling them out you can drill a hole through the center and wire it off to a disposable stake and then drive into the ground. This really helps if you are trapping a river with a fast current where your pipe could float down stream.
And here is the trap placement in front of the baited pipe (trap would be under shallow water).
Tools needed...Sawzall or hacksaw, hammer, drill, tape measure, sharpie, pliers and PVC piping with 90 degree angles. All pics can be enlarged.
Take your measurement and mark you PVC were it is to be cut. I cut mine so that the end you push into the ground is at a 45 degree angle.
I make two sizes: 12 inch for hard ground and 18 inches for soft ground. Mark the tops of them with your sharpie if you wish. I do so just to make sure I grab the right one when I'm in a hurry.
If you have problems with coon pulling them out you can drill a hole through the center and wire it off to a disposable stake and then drive into the ground. This really helps if you are trapping a river with a fast current where your pipe could float down stream.
And here is the trap placement in front of the baited pipe (trap would be under shallow water).
Nature's Master Trappers
I was taking a hike with my kids this morning and while I led the way along the path I ran into more spider webs that I can count. Annoying, yes, but it got me to thinking about how spiders lay their traps. Do they just spin webs where it's convenient and hope to land a passing bug, or do they strategize and outsmart their prey? A little research yielded some interesting facts.
Many species of spiders spin orb shaped webs on a horizontal plane, which is what I noticed when I began to observe them. Researchers believe they do this to gain the advantage of camouflage. Insects flying up from the ground are less likely to see the web silhouetted against the sky. A horizontal web is also less likely to be damaged by the wind, yet as the web vibrates in the breeze it is still effective in catching insects in slow, horizontal flight. All trappers, even spiders, know that you have to understand the habits and limitations of your prey in order to outsmart them.
Still other spiders spin several webs that each consist of only a single "trapeze line" which they patrol. These lines are spun at all angles and various lengths but are anchored to the same point, and spun at hot-spots of insect activity. Sounds like a "gang set" to me.
It's fascinating, to me at least, to know something about the tactics of these little trappers, and how they follow some of the same principles we do regarding set location, position and camouflage. This link will tell you more than you ever wanted to know about this subject.
On a final note, it's interesting that the Bible acknowledges the skill of the spider, and uses it as one of nature's examples of industriousness. "The spider skillfully grasps with its hands, and it is in king's palaces" (Prov. 30:28).
Pipe Set for Raccoons
by Tony Hursman of Alabama
The first pic is of a typical location for a pipe set along a lake bank. This set up has yielded a lot of coon as well as some rats and mink for me. I like a bank that is a little higher than the water. All pics can be enlarged by clicking on them.
The second pic is of the tools I use to make the set: a piece of field drainage pipe about 20 inches long, a Victor 1 1/2 trap with the square pan and my trap shovel for digging in the bank.
The 3rd pic is of the hole being dug to the proper depth and width of pipe. Remember to save the dirt for filling around the exposed pipe.
The 4th pic is the pipe inserted in the bank hole. The dirt is applied to cover at least 3/4 of the pipe, leaving at least 4 inches exposed.
The 5th pic shows the set with the camouflage added and the trap placement. I set the trap so just the pan is exposed. The pipe is extended beyond the bank and the trap is set about 3 inches in front of the pipe to force the coon to the deeper water at the end of pipe and away from bank. He will have to raise up to see in the pipe which puts his back foot in the trap. The trap is attached to a drowner wire.
The final pic is everything set up and a view of the set from a distance, as a passing coon would see it. Add a little bait and lure to the hole and you're set to catch those coons at the water's edge.
The first pic is of a typical location for a pipe set along a lake bank. This set up has yielded a lot of coon as well as some rats and mink for me. I like a bank that is a little higher than the water. All pics can be enlarged by clicking on them.
The second pic is of the tools I use to make the set: a piece of field drainage pipe about 20 inches long, a Victor 1 1/2 trap with the square pan and my trap shovel for digging in the bank.
The 3rd pic is of the hole being dug to the proper depth and width of pipe. Remember to save the dirt for filling around the exposed pipe.
The 4th pic is the pipe inserted in the bank hole. The dirt is applied to cover at least 3/4 of the pipe, leaving at least 4 inches exposed.
The 5th pic shows the set with the camouflage added and the trap placement. I set the trap so just the pan is exposed. The pipe is extended beyond the bank and the trap is set about 3 inches in front of the pipe to force the coon to the deeper water at the end of pipe and away from bank. He will have to raise up to see in the pipe which puts his back foot in the trap. The trap is attached to a drowner wire.
The final pic is everything set up and a view of the set from a distance, as a passing coon would see it. Add a little bait and lure to the hole and you're set to catch those coons at the water's edge.
Conibear Pans
by Ron Lancour
Vice President, British Columbia Trapper's Assoc.
Here are 5 different methods of making pans on your conibear traps. Pans in my opinion are the only way to go for Mink. I like them at my Marten sets as well as they catch any Ermine that comes along. You can make these on any size conibear trap you are going to use in a cubby or in a box.
Vice President, British Columbia Trapper's Assoc.
Here are 5 different methods of making pans on your conibear traps. Pans in my opinion are the only way to go for Mink. I like them at my Marten sets as well as they catch any Ermine that comes along. You can make these on any size conibear trap you are going to use in a cubby or in a box.
F&T's North American Trapper Show UPDATE
Alan Probst recently announced the following. This is great news and should provide better exposure for the first all trapping show on TV!
The show will not be running on ICTV from this point on. The show has been taken off the air and will now run the entire 4th quarter and then re-air 1st quarter for a new 26 week schedule on the Pursuit Channel, which is DirecTV channel 608 and Dish Network (TBD), as well as an additional 9 million households on Time Warner Cable systems starting in January. The total reach of this program will now be around the 50 million household mark and on a much better outdoor programming carriage system.
There is a distinct difference with Pursuit network and the show will be running two basic prime slots which should provide even more exposure. The times the show will be airing are Wed 11:30am, Fri 7:30pm and Fri 11:30pm during the 4th and 1st quarters.
The show will not be running on ICTV from this point on. The show has been taken off the air and will now run the entire 4th quarter and then re-air 1st quarter for a new 26 week schedule on the Pursuit Channel, which is DirecTV channel 608 and Dish Network (TBD), as well as an additional 9 million households on Time Warner Cable systems starting in January. The total reach of this program will now be around the 50 million household mark and on a much better outdoor programming carriage system.
There is a distinct difference with Pursuit network and the show will be running two basic prime slots which should provide even more exposure. The times the show will be airing are Wed 11:30am, Fri 7:30pm and Fri 11:30pm during the 4th and 1st quarters.
Canine Remakes
by Bill Frank from Texas
Remakes are perhaps one of the biggest concerns for canine trappers. After a day of making fresh sets its agravating to find a possum in your yote sets the next day. That perfect, subtle location is gone, those weed clumps are no longer there, and your perfect set is just a circle in the dirt. Some people, as a matter of course, just pull that trap and make a fresh set nearby. Others remake the set exactly as it was. Some remake it into a different type of set, and some pull and use the same trap at the edge of the circle. Mine are simple. I generally make 2 main types of fresh sets: flat sets and stepdown sets. I also use the trail set a little, but that's just a flat set made in a trail.
Tee Time for Coons
by Bill Abrams in New York
I wanted to share a trick I picked up last year that has been putting a lot of coons and some fox on stretchers for me ever since I started using it. One day I was fishing for salmon to make coon bait in a small stream at a local golf course. I was walking the creek and spotted a large coon working the bank ahead on a sandbar. He was digging and sniffing around when a golfball landed right next to him! He ran over and picked it up and tried to eat it! He bit it several times and played with it until the owner came to find it, but it gave me an idea.
Golf balls look like turtle eggs and everyone knows that coons love them! So I decided to try them in my arsenal for trapping season. I dig a dirthole in a gravel bar along a river, creek or pond (where turtles like to bury their eggs) and place a couple of balls in the dirthole. I experimented and found that lure helped but I caught a lot of coons without it as well. So after using them for a year I decided to share this with you guys and hope you can use it. Golf balls have great eye appeal at a set and it WORKS! I have also used ping-pong balls with even better success. You can inject them with lure and give them even more appeal. Good luck!
Golf balls look like turtle eggs and everyone knows that coons love them! So I decided to try them in my arsenal for trapping season. I dig a dirthole in a gravel bar along a river, creek or pond (where turtles like to bury their eggs) and place a couple of balls in the dirthole. I experimented and found that lure helped but I caught a lot of coons without it as well. So after using them for a year I decided to share this with you guys and hope you can use it. Golf balls have great eye appeal at a set and it WORKS! I have also used ping-pong balls with even better success. You can inject them with lure and give them even more appeal. Good luck!
Snaring Tire Tracks
by "ADC" in Iowa
Here's the one I snared....
And here's how I did it....
Notice the second snare in the left tire track (click pic to enlarge).
I drove along a fence through this corn field. Knowing that fox take the path of least resistance, I stopped and walked back in my tire tracks about 20 yards until I found a spot where a cornstalk was sticking up near the tire tracks and simply hung the snare over the track using an 8" loop 8" off the ground. I use #9 wire pigtailed on a 20-24" long 1/2" rebar stake to both support and anchor the snare. If you look you can see the snare in the other tire track still set. I make up to 3 sets in each track every fifty yards or so. I use live catch snares for fox due to the deer stop laws in Iowa. They won't close tight enough to kill a fox so I use bigger cable (3/32) and bigger locks (Hanson Washers or Heavy Berkshire Washers) to prevent fur damage. I hope this helps you all out.
Here's the one I snared....
And here's how I did it....
Notice the second snare in the left tire track (click pic to enlarge).
I drove along a fence through this corn field. Knowing that fox take the path of least resistance, I stopped and walked back in my tire tracks about 20 yards until I found a spot where a cornstalk was sticking up near the tire tracks and simply hung the snare over the track using an 8" loop 8" off the ground. I use #9 wire pigtailed on a 20-24" long 1/2" rebar stake to both support and anchor the snare. If you look you can see the snare in the other tire track still set. I make up to 3 sets in each track every fifty yards or so. I use live catch snares for fox due to the deer stop laws in Iowa. They won't close tight enough to kill a fox so I use bigger cable (3/32) and bigger locks (Hanson Washers or Heavy Berkshire Washers) to prevent fur damage. I hope this helps you all out.
American Idol Contestant Shoots Back at PETA
Kristy Lee Cook, an American Idol contestant and host of a new reality hunting show on TV, has taken a beating from PETA. In a recent news article she shot back at PETA, defending herself and the rights of all outdoorsmen (and women). "Given that hunters have done more for American wildlife conservation than any other group in history, I make no apology for being one," Cook said. "Indeed, I join the ranks of millions of American hunters who celebrate our outdoor heritage and who conserve millions of acres of wild lands. These same people support more than 600,000 jobs across the country and provide a critical voice to encourage more investment in American conservation."
In contrast to such a reasonable and wholesome perspective, PETA continues its campaign of celebrity nudity to generate interest in its agenda. Something is wrong when you have to resort to softcore pornography to make a political point.
In contrast to such a reasonable and wholesome perspective, PETA continues its campaign of celebrity nudity to generate interest in its agenda. Something is wrong when you have to resort to softcore pornography to make a political point.
Homemade Earth Anchors
by Jeremy Fairchild from Millville, PA
I decided to try to make my own chain stakes and it turns out they were simple, yet worked great. I used 3/8th black pipe cut on a 45 degree angle at 3" long. I dropped a nut in the plugged end and filled it with weld to keep dirt from plugging up the end and causing my driver to stick
.
I bent my first link of #3 chain to nearly a 90 degree bend, tack welded it to the top front of the pipe, smacked it with a hammer to a true 90 when it was hot (so the link wouldn't crack), and fully welded the link to the pipe. This eliminates any need for drilling or using a rivet, a nut, or an S-hook. This connection is super strong and low profile. I really like it so far as they set everytime and hold like....well...a chain.
I welded a short piece of pipe with the same 45 degree cut to the end of my driver. The driver is 5/8" grade 8 all thread with the end ground down to fit inside the pipe. This has been by far the best driver I've ever used. I usually go through at least 6 "cold rolled" drivers a season, but this one is still straight as an arrow after driving superstakes all last year. I beat the snot out of that driver. Find some grade 8 material and add a soft grade 5 nut to the top to wail on.
I also thought of welding a fender washer to the bottom of the pipe for more holding power in soft ground or mud, but so far it has not been needed. It would sort of be like a finned stake. You could also weld a nut to the back side for a retrieval boss.
I decided to try to make my own chain stakes and it turns out they were simple, yet worked great. I used 3/8th black pipe cut on a 45 degree angle at 3" long. I dropped a nut in the plugged end and filled it with weld to keep dirt from plugging up the end and causing my driver to stick
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I bent my first link of #3 chain to nearly a 90 degree bend, tack welded it to the top front of the pipe, smacked it with a hammer to a true 90 when it was hot (so the link wouldn't crack), and fully welded the link to the pipe. This eliminates any need for drilling or using a rivet, a nut, or an S-hook. This connection is super strong and low profile. I really like it so far as they set everytime and hold like....well...a chain.
I welded a short piece of pipe with the same 45 degree cut to the end of my driver. The driver is 5/8" grade 8 all thread with the end ground down to fit inside the pipe. This has been by far the best driver I've ever used. I usually go through at least 6 "cold rolled" drivers a season, but this one is still straight as an arrow after driving superstakes all last year. I beat the snot out of that driver. Find some grade 8 material and add a soft grade 5 nut to the top to wail on.
Pictures can be enlarged by clicking on them
I also thought of welding a fender washer to the bottom of the pipe for more holding power in soft ground or mud, but so far it has not been needed. It would sort of be like a finned stake. You could also weld a nut to the back side for a retrieval boss.
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