Showing posts with label Trap preparation and modification. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Trap preparation and modification. Show all posts
Trap Preparation From Start To Finish
Fast Trap Prep
by "ADC" in Iowa
Run new traps through the dishwasher with the same amount of dishwasher soap you use for really dirty dishes. Be sure to keep the chains up out of any moving parts...
Then dip them in a mixture of 1/2 white vinegar and 1/2 water (redip and turn traps every hour or so)...
Lay them out in the grass and about 7 hours later they have a light coat of rust and are ready to be dyed...
At this point I dye them a dozen at a time with commercial logwood dye by boiling them over a turkey fryer burner. I use one 1lb. bag of dye to 3 1/2 or 4 gal. of water. This will dye 4 to 5 dozen traps before you'd want to add another bag of dye. Boil them about 10-15 minutes on a medium boil then hang them to dry. Then I heat wax in a large stockpot until it is completely melted and starting to smoke (turn the burner down so it doesn't burst into flames and keep the lid handy if it does). Be sure the traps are completely dry before dipping them or the wax will boil violently! I dip each trap in the wax one at a time using a stiff piece of #9 wire with a hook on the end to lower the trap in the wax. I leave it in the wax until the "sizzling" stops (about 30 seconds to 1 min.). The trap needs to be heated to the same temperature as the wax for it to coat correctly without too thick a coating. Then I pull the trap out, shake off the excess wax and hang it to dry. As soon as it is cool it can be set, but hang them up outside until you are ready to use them.
Be extremely careful when waxing traps. The wax is flammable and should not be overheated.
The dye and wax is available through most any trapping supply company.
For used traps I take them to a car wash and power wash off all the dirt and loose rust then skip the dishwasher and vinegar and go right to dying and waxing.
Run new traps through the dishwasher with the same amount of dishwasher soap you use for really dirty dishes. Be sure to keep the chains up out of any moving parts...
Then dip them in a mixture of 1/2 white vinegar and 1/2 water (redip and turn traps every hour or so)...
Lay them out in the grass and about 7 hours later they have a light coat of rust and are ready to be dyed...
At this point I dye them a dozen at a time with commercial logwood dye by boiling them over a turkey fryer burner. I use one 1lb. bag of dye to 3 1/2 or 4 gal. of water. This will dye 4 to 5 dozen traps before you'd want to add another bag of dye. Boil them about 10-15 minutes on a medium boil then hang them to dry. Then I heat wax in a large stockpot until it is completely melted and starting to smoke (turn the burner down so it doesn't burst into flames and keep the lid handy if it does). Be sure the traps are completely dry before dipping them or the wax will boil violently! I dip each trap in the wax one at a time using a stiff piece of #9 wire with a hook on the end to lower the trap in the wax. I leave it in the wax until the "sizzling" stops (about 30 seconds to 1 min.). The trap needs to be heated to the same temperature as the wax for it to coat correctly without too thick a coating. Then I pull the trap out, shake off the excess wax and hang it to dry. As soon as it is cool it can be set, but hang them up outside until you are ready to use them.
Be extremely careful when waxing traps. The wax is flammable and should not be overheated.
The dye and wax is available through most any trapping supply company.
For used traps I take them to a car wash and power wash off all the dirt and loose rust then skip the dishwasher and vinegar and go right to dying and waxing.
Conibear Pans
by Ron Lancour
Vice President, British Columbia Trapper's Assoc.
Here are 5 different methods of making pans on your conibear traps. Pans in my opinion are the only way to go for Mink. I like them at my Marten sets as well as they catch any Ermine that comes along. You can make these on any size conibear trap you are going to use in a cubby or in a box.
Vice President, British Columbia Trapper's Assoc.
Here are 5 different methods of making pans on your conibear traps. Pans in my opinion are the only way to go for Mink. I like them at my Marten sets as well as they catch any Ermine that comes along. You can make these on any size conibear trap you are going to use in a cubby or in a box.
Dying and Waxing Traps: A Refresher Course
Most people who have ever seen a real trap outside of a movie or TV show will tell you they look black and may wonder how they get that way. After all, they are made of steel and steel just rusts unless painted or otherwise protected. Dying and waxing your traps will seal the pores of the steel and protect the trap from rust.
Now any trapper knows before the season rolls around you have 2 kinds of traps. You have brand new out of the box traps, still shiny and greasy from the factory, and your old traps, with mud and dirt caked onto them. Now the best way to get them ready to dye and wax is to take them to a car wash and blast the devil out of them with a power washer. For the new traps use engine degreaser to get the grease off, and use deep clean for the old dirty traps.
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